As one of England’s most talented celebrity chefs, Michael Caines, executive head chef at Gidleigh Park’s two-Michelin star restaurant, is steadily working towards becoming only the fourth chef in the UK to boast three Michelin stars.
“I don’t believe that in the UK there are only three restaurants deserved of three Michelin stars,” says Caines, “that’s just not reflective of this country’s culinary talent, and it’s certainly within our capability here at Gidleigh. But, when distinguishing between either a two or three Michelin star meal there’s not that much difference in the quality of the food — it’s consistent quality, and the manner in which it’s served that really matter.”
And the steaks don’t get much higher than when cooking in a hotel where guests expect two Michelin star fare for breakfast, lunch and dinner over the course of their three-night stay. But Caines appears unfazed by pressure, choosing instead to push the boundaries of food to produce a reputable, tasty menu. He creates dishes with uniquely tantalising combinations that generously treat your palate to a flurry of intense, electrifying flavours, such as tartlet of quail’s eggs with onion confit and black truffle, or slow-poached Cornish sea bass with Thai purée, stir-fried shitake mushrooms and lemon-grass foam.
Caines’ Food Style
Served in perfect-sized portions, his signature European-style cuisine, now fully established at Gidleigh, is inspired by memories of his mother in the kitchen, fuelled by his love of regional ingredients, and profoundly influenced by his three great mentors — the late Bernard Loiseau, Joel Robuchan, and Raymond Blanc. “They’ve all played their part in honing my style,” says Caines. “For example, Raymond Blanc showed me that food has no boundaries, that you can’t be blinkered when in the kitchen, while Robuchan has outstanding technical ability, and Loiseau really opened my eyes up to the richness of local produce.”
And the local produce doesn’t get much better than in Devon. With Gidleigh Park Hotel set in the heartland of Dartmoor National Park, Caines has the south west’s impressive larder at his disposal — the restaurant’s beef and lamb is all farmed on Dartmoor, while its fish is sourced from nearby Brixham and Plymouth. “Our heritage of food has always been well appreciated in this country, but Britain doesn’t have a prolific repertoire of regional or local dishes,” says Caines. “But what we do have is an incredibly strong larder that offers some unique creative opportunities.”
Opening ABode Restaurants
Not one to rest on his laurels, Caines also has other business commitments outside of Gidleigh. Having been awarded an MBE in 2006 for services to the hospitality industry, Michael Caines ‘the brand’ is on the up. Since founding Michael Caines Restaurants Ltd in 1999, he entered into partnership with Andrew Brownsword, owner of Gidleigh Park, in 2004, and together they founded ABode, a ‘fast-growing group of boutique hotels’ all featuring Michael Caines dining establishments.
“The last few years have been particularly rewarding, but it only makes me all the more determined to keep my integrity for what I do, and to continue to be a positive role model for young talent in the hospitality industry,” says Caines. “It’s important that we continue to invest in new creative skill, and encourage chefs to produce cuisine that is unique to their landscape. Cooking has a sexy image in the UK now, and we need to maintain the gastro-cool!”
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